According to many ancient Irish books such as, the Book of Lacan, Keating, Leabhar Gabhala and the Annals of the Four Masters the first to inhabit Ireland arrived in Bantry Bay forty years before the deluge. Cesaire (a niece of Noah) with 150 handmaidens and 3 men are said to have landed at Donemark in the parish of Kilmocomogue, barony of Bantry. Wave after wave of immigrants arrived in Ireland, many through Bantry Bay, during the following centuries, the Fomorians, the Nemedians, the Firbolgs and the Milsesians to name but a few. Many arrived here as early as 4000BC and were a nomadic prople living off the land by hunting, fishing and collecting berries. They used tools and weapons fashioned from stone and made shelters of animals hides. Very little trace of these early settlers are to be found except for the occasional polished stone axe head and arrow and spear heads also fashioned from stone. Little change took place in the way people worked and lived for another 2000 years.
Then a new race arrived in Bantry attracted here by the abundance of
copper to be found in our hills. They brought with them the skills of
mining & processing copper. They manufactured tools and weapons
such as axes, spears, knives and daggers. To harden the copper they
imported tin from Cornwall. This race left tangible and mysterious evidence
of its culture in the form of bronze tools and weapons which are often
found during land tillage and excavations. Dotted around the hills and
valleys of Bantry can also be seen their stone circles, standing stones,
stone alignments and burials.
The Irish name for Bantry is Beanntraige. The name came from a son of Conor MacNessa called Beannt. Conor MacNessa was one of the kings of Ireland at the time of Christ. The ending 'raige' in the name means the people or territory of "Beannt" Bantry Bay is one of the finest and safest harbours in Europe and is situated in a strategic position on the edge of the Atlantic ocean. Being very deep with no dangerous or sand banks and sheltered from most winds by the mountains which surround it, from earliest times it has been used as a haven by fishermen and merchant ships. For centuries the fleets of England, Spain, France & Holland fished in the bay, paying harbour dues and fishing tax to the O'Sullivan Clan who controlled the bay. From Bantry ships sailed loaded with recruits for the French, Spanish, Austrian & Dutch armies.
In March 1689 a French fleet sailed into Bantry Bay with 7000 soldiers, arms, ammunition and money for James II in his war with William of Orange. Many of the soldiers fought and died at the battles of Derry and the Boyne. As the French sailed down Bantry Bay returning to France an English fleet, under Admiral Herbert, entered the bay searching for them. In the battle which followed the French out manoeuvered the English and made their escape. Many ships were badly damaged and a number from each side were killed. Both sides claimed victory! In 1697 troops of William of Orange were landed in Bantry.
On 15th December 1796 Bantry once again became the destination of a French Fleet. 43 ships and 15,000 men set sail from Brest in support of the Irish patriot, Wolfe Tone. Tone, a founder member of the United Irishmen, was determined to establish an Irish Republic by armed rebellion. Easterly storms off the Irish coast dispersed the fleet and while some succeeded in anchoring in Bantry Bay, most were scattered in the Atlantic. On 27th January 1797 the order was given to abandon the attempted invasion and the few remaining ships in the bay that were seaworthy sailed for France. More than a century and a half later, in 1969, a fleet of the largest ships ever build made Bantry its regular port of call. The Gulf Oil Co. established a Crude Oil Tank Farm on Whiddy Island in Bantry Bay. The giant tankers brought the crude oil from Kuwait to Bantry via the Cape of Good Hope for transhipment to European refineries in smaller tankers.
Prior to 1600 Bantry was only a small hamlet of maybe 20 houses surrounded by thick forest, with a few scattered small farms in the area. The people of the hamlet depended on fishing and grew their own crops. The few farms in the area were self sufficient and had very little contact with the town. The town was isolated from Cork and other large towns. Dermot O'Sullivan, a local chieftain, founded a Franciscan Abbey west of Bantry in 1460. The Abbey survived for almost 200 years though there is no evidence that it encouraged further settlement. All that remains now are some stones which have been fashioned as an altar in the graveyard known as the 'Abbey' which is the main cemetary for the Bantry district.
About 1600 English settlers arrived in the Bantry area enticed there by reports of vast shoals of Pilchards which were found in the bay. (Pilchards are like herring only shorter and rounder!) Unlike the poor fishermen they had the finances to rig out new boats with ropes. nets etc which were required for the task. The fishing was a great success financially and more English settlers arrived on the scene. The population of the Hamlet expanded rapidly and by 1725 there were numerous 'Fish Palaces' around the harbour. Atfer the failure of the 1641 Rising the Cromwellian soldiers were rewarded with grants of land in the Banrty area, the Earl of Anglessa receiving 96,000 acres. Many of the settlers became disenchanted with the lonely farming life and the lands granted to the Earl and his officers were bought by a member of the White family. The Whites engaged in farming, clearance of the forests, iron ore smelting etc and prospered. Because of the assistance which he gave to the British establishment and military during the French Invasion of 1796 Richard White was made Baron of Bantry in 1797, Viscount Bantry in 1800 and Earl of Bantry in January 1816.
In the early 1800's Bantry prospered. The Napoleonic Wars created a huge demand for all agricultural produce and the Bantry fishing boats employed 1,162 men in 1821 out of a total population of almost 4000. In 1831 the population totalled 4,275 while 10 years later it had dropped to 4.082. It is not known exactly how many died during the Famine years. With the collapse of the fishing industry, mining, milling, hide and butter market, together with the mass exodus of emigrants to the States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand the population dropped drastically to about 1200.
From the turn of the present century Bantry as a rural town just managed to survive especially through the Wars eventhough Bantry Bay was the base for the Atlantic British Fleet and the resulting commerce it generated. After WW2 the town fell into further decline and most of the young people immigrated to foreign parts to find work. The notorious Black Fifties was a time of mass emigrations. With the upturn of the Irish economy in the early '60's a number of small industries were established in Bantry and with the gradual improvements in the local economy Bantry began to revive itself especially during the building of the Crude Oil Terminal on Whiddy Island when Bantry became a boom town. This revival was short lived. The tanker explosion and the closure of the Terminal was a severe blow to the economy of the town with its loss of some 250 jobs.
In the last 20 years, Bantry has revived to become a leader in Mariculture with mussels the main product. It is now a vibrant market town and popular tourist destination, looking to the future but aware of its heritage.
Bantry, to-day, is a hive of activity with its brightly decorated houses and streets. The town Square has been changed to a large promenade with seating, trees, flowers, an anchor and a centre piece fountain. A mile of safe footpath with seafront wall, seating and viewing points extends from the town. Being located in the centre of West Cork it is considered the major shopping and commercial centre of the whole West Cork region. There are many places of interest within the vicinity of the town. These include;
Bantry House which is a large Georgian mansion renowned throughout the
world for its collection of art, furniture and tapestries.
The French Invasion Exhibition Centre with its lifelike reconstruction of the events of 1796.
The Kilnaruane Carved Pillar Stone is located on a drumlin, a mile outside the town, close to the West Lodge on the N71 route. It is a monument of early Christian times that may have formed the shaft of a high cross. One of the panels depicts a boat with four oarsmen.
The gun batteries of Whiddy Island; and the many places of historical interest dating from the late 1600's.
Walking
There are 2 Walks recognised by the National Waymarked Ways Committee in the Bantry area, namely Sheep's Head Way and Beara Way.
The Sheep's Head Way is an 88km route which circles the whole of the Sheep's Head from Bantry to Sheep's Head at the end of the peninsula and back through Kilcrohane, Ahakista and Durrus. This Walk was recognised in 1997 as ''The Best Walk in Ireland' by the magazine "Walking World Ireland". The Walking is mostly off road across open hillside and is well marked by oak posts and carved stone markers. There are also five Loop Walks which run north/south and can be used to lengthen or shorten the days' walking. The guide book and map of the Sheep's Head Way is available at the Tourist Office and local shops.
The Beara Way is about 165km stretching from Kenmare to Glengarriff, west to Dursey and back to Kenmare on the north side of the peninsula. There are numerous loops for those who just want a short circular walk in scenic surroundings.
Golf
Bantry Bay Golf Club, 2km from Bantry on the N71 to Glengarriff is a demanding 18 hole course, designed by Christy O'Connor, Jnr. (Length 5910m. Par 71). Near-by is a Pitch & Putt Course.
There are 3 more 18 hole courses within a 20 mile radius and 9 hole golf courses at Glengarriff & Castletownbere.
For golf enthusiasts there is an 18 hole golf course at Bantry; a demanding 9 hole course in Glengarriff; and three more 18 hole courses within a 20 mile radius.
Angling
Shore fishing has become very popular in the area due
to the large variety of fish being caught - conger eels, brown dogfish,
spotted dogfish, cod, pollock, ray, skate, ling, and other varieties.For
those interested in sea angling boats are available for daily hire.
For the lake and river fishing enthusiasts there are two of the best
fishing lakes in Ireland for brown and rainbow trout as well as coarse
fish and there are six rivers which are noted for salmon and sea trout
fishing. Licences for fishing can be obtained in the local fish-tackle
shops.
Boating and Sailing
For those interested in sailing, boating, canoeing, and
kayaking there is a safe anchorage and harbour facilities i.e. slipways
for launching boats and yachts.
Cranage is available but only by prior arrangement and adequate notice.
Boat hire, kayak, canoes and skiboats are available at the Abbey slipway
during summer months.
Archaeological Sites
The Bantry Bay area is rich in sites of historical and archeological interest, from wedge tombs, which are thousands of years old, to those of more recet origin. The area is dotted with stone circles, alignments and galluns. The Kilnaruane Pillar Stone, The Kealkil Stone Circle, the Breenymore Megalithes and the Ahakista Stone Circle being the more accessible near Bantry. Detailed leaflets and maps are available at Bantry Tourist Information Office or Bookstores.
Entertainment
The host or hostess in a place of accommodation will inform the visitor as to the locations of evening entertainment. As darkness does not fall until at least 10pm during the summer months night entertainment does not usually begin until 10pm. Then there is a choice of classical music (at Bantry House), modern, Irish, disco etc. With approximately 20 pubs and lounge bars the choice is up to the visitor. The local pub culture is still strong in the locality and the best places are known by your host - just ask anybody. The people of this region are the most friendly in the whole of Ireland.
Eating out
The greater Bantry region has accommodation for approximately 2,500 visitors. There are 6 major hotels, 6 family run small hotels, inns, lodges, plus a large number of private approved guesthouses which can accommodate from 4 to 25 people. Two of the hotels, namely, The West Lodge, Bantry and the Eccles Hotel, Glengarriff, cater for large groups and bus tours. In Bantry town both the Bantry Bay Hotel and Vickery's Inn cater for smaller groups including lunches for passing tours. There are five hostels in the area as well as an award winning camping site by the sea. With food in mind there is a selection of restaurants to suit every pocket from gourmet to fish and chips outlets. Different tastes catered for include seafood, vegetarian, French, Italian, Oriental and the best of local cooking.